You can see it is not completed. I did in the last video take a poll to see who wanted me to do the upgrades on camera and who wanted me just to go out and rip it, and I got ta say so. Many people wanted me to do the upgrades on camera. I couldn't do them all off the camera, because there's so many folks that are interested in seeing something unique like the capital ace 1. But for those folks that wanted me to move forward, I did do a lot off camera. I just left a few of the interesting points for me to do with the other viewers today. So let me take off this cage. Put this off to the side. One of the upgrades I've already done. Is this front. Aluminum bumper, but I'll cover that in a moment, look at this the optional upgrade parts from Capel the links are on now. These are all aluminum very thick links. They appear to be exceptionally strong in their design. Also let's take note of all these red spacers that they have in here these little grommets that are installed on the links. What these are for, that I've discovered, which is absolutely fantastic and we've known this before, but it's good to see it come on. Some other parts here are as a stock links, ok, very standard, very straightforward. They are aluminum and you know built like any other scale, truck that comes with stock links.
The problem is, is once you get some dust in here: fine grit, holy cow was the machine ever squeaky? Now these red grommets in here actually or red spacers take away all that squeak from the suspension. The other thing I went ahead and did is, I did remove the old link. Hangers here is the link hanger that failed me in the beginning, it's been changed from what I've been told prior to release of the truck on the front. There was only this one screw down here, supporting the link hanger right on the axle housing, as well as one up top right there right in the middle. So what they've done is they've made a clamp system that utilizes that same hole in the middle to mount. It which is right here, but on the backside, which is a little bit more difficult, this whole new system is actually like a clamp now. Let me see if I can focus in on the back one here there we go you'll see that there's, actually four screws on the back plate of that clamp, so five screws in total holding the suspension links on for the upper links. So one here one here and of course again on the back with the red grommets, so now super strong with super strong links on the side that go up to the same chassis plate that we replaced before all aluminum. But this brings up another point. I did a comparison, video between the Rafe and the bomber and the capital S one last year at the end of last year.
Somebody had told me well why didn't you stick a race plate on here instead, and this is a race plate. That is the capital. F one plate is the capital H, one is actually much bigger than the race. You guys, can't really tell because a scale on camera is hard to show, but it's definitely wider and has larger parts on it, and now, with these optional upgrade parts. I think this thing is actually going to be a beast: I've gone through the whole truck and locked itd every single little screw just because it is aluminum on aluminum I'm going to try and back these ones out today, because what I waited for, even though I Did swap out the motor plate here as well as install a four or a thirty turn hand wound motor. So I wanted a little bit more wheel, speed, it's, a Tekin. Of course, I did not swap out the steering, so what I have to do with these longer links is actually change out. This cable that's quite tight here and I know we're all excited to see more about this cable driven steering right. We all have a lot of questions on how it works or how is it assembled, and I thought for the guys that were interested. We might as well take it apart today and go through it together and rebuild it with a longer cable. Now let's talk for a moment about this aluminum front bumper check it out.
It'S got an early teeth on it on the side. All of this is aluminum all the way up to this a chassis plate which is actually very light, plastic keeping the truck. You know the lid fairly light overall, one of the things I really liked about the upgrade, apart from being much stronger, is here's the original bumper that comes with it. You can mount a winch on it or whatever, and these arms actually come down from the chassis to the side. Now you can see these two, you know bolt together, like any other scale truck would – and this is plastic also, the new one is all machine together. So it fits nicely together Plus this is all aluminum as well, so super strong on either side and now will certainly protect whatever you like. If I do a nose, diver lawn dart it, it will protect this hard body, which is pretty cool I'm glad I have it alright, I flipped it around, so you can have a look at the steering servo. This is what we're really interested in. I haven't seen a cable driven steering system on an RC truck yet, and I want to swap out that servo for a waterproof servo comes down. These cables into the axle have a look at that today that help control this front Ram, really it's, cable, driven, basically looks like a hydro steering setup for a full scale rig but being intense scale, keeping costs down and not using any hydraulics.
You can see the cable system is set up with two cable stops on either side. Those cable stops actually support each wire and move the tires left and right now, a lot of the concern that people have had are saying. You know you know don't, you break this off when you're crawling on the rocks and I haven't yet I've had to be aware, of course, that I don't have a rock just jamming into it and hurting it, but I would do that with my scale truck anyway. First thing I got to do is flip it over, but I got to be careful because the shocks are there I'm going to leave that spacer in plate. It smells timing system for our immune disease. Put this out here, where there's very little pressure on the shocks. A lot of you might be wondering aren't you worried about putting pressure on these side. Pistons no I'm, not it's, actually just pushing on the housing right there, I'm, pretty confident things will be fine, plus it's supported in the middle all right. So this whole assembly basically holds this pulley in place. This wire wraps around the pulley and is locked in there and pulls through different brackets. That help add tension so I'd. Imagine if I'm going to change this out. First thing we want to do is release the servo. If I can back this out. Oh yeah, look at that: okay free from the servo and the servo still has the brackets on it, so I'm going to go ahead and swap that over immediately with the new waterproof servo, I have so I'm inspecting this whole pulley system and it this is really Actually very neat have a look at this screw and small tree here, it's kind of hard to see.
Let me get you in closer whew, too close okay. So there you go. This tree is what I'm referring to at the front, and it actually is a tensioner. This whole screw right here you can remove this whole tensioner with two bolts on either side, and you tighten it up with this that's how you tighten the cable, very cool I'm, going to be very careful not to let my hex driver strip out these aluminum screws. There'S that and then the final one had to remove the tensioner screw to get to the other screw. That was on the other side. Then I just popped out this top plate. Here is a large bearing on the inside. You can see here that it's, actually the wire is actually twisted in here we'll – get into that in a second when I replace it here. I am at the front of the axle. This is the skid plate for the steering and, of course, for the front differential and then I'm going to have to take the cable stops out, got a windy day today, perfect day for working on our sea and then let's kind of back route, where this goes So these are the two tensioner posts right here going to back it out through the steering and then it just simply loops underneath the front disc there. These are actually additional pumpkin housing, sliders here, aluminum ones cool. I didn't notice that before not only does it mount the skid plate, but it is a skid plate all right, so cable driven system needs to have this heat shrink taken off, we'll, be replacing this and then, as I slide it back this way, let me see Something here I notice on the bottom: the cable is a little longer here's, where I thought I'd have some problems because it was frayed but it's, not too bad and then, of course, through the hole.
This has been looped through two holes on the pulley. I know it's got to be boring as heck for some of you out there, but the other people that are super interested are like cable pull steering is pretty darn cool. I think it is happy you probably already checked out, but for all the true fans that wanted me to do this on camera I'm. Here doing it for you guys, hopefully, iron alight click or a thumbs up from me on that one. There we go finally got it out: whoo BAM. Okay, first thing I have to do is bend the wire at exactly 35 centimeters or thirteen point: seven, seven, five inches. The long part, of course, is going to go on the bottom and I'm just going to rethread. This and then carefully there's two holes in the end of this pulley without fraying that wire come on hold eyes. You can do it, Oh wants to fray right away. There we go and the other one on the opposite side, then, once the loop is in place, what we want to do is back it somewhat like pull it tight, Boop and then back it through a little opening in the pulley like so and then same on This side through the pulley and then pull it tight good. The end fared very well all right servo time, so this servo is a little bit larger than the one that they actually suggest check it out.
If I line this up, you can actually see the waterproof servo is a hair bigger than the other one. Now the bonus is, is that I know it is a very tight fit, but you can get this in there. So I'll kind of demonstrate how to do that today. But first I wanted to make sure off camera that my servo is centered. You want to make sure to do that also make sure that the cable is in the center position and then, of course, just kind of slide that whole pulley system right onto the servo mounting area there we go and then one two three four screws to mount. It up center screw in the middle of course hold that back in place. So then I have my housing turning it around notice on the pulley. If you are following along, there is a long side and a short side see the tops are different. Lengths long side on the bottom guys, but first what you got to do is thread the wire right through so like that and then on the other side as well mounting it into the bearing then on this top plate, there's. Actually a in set screw point. You can see there that's actually for the tensioner screw it's, not on the other side. So I'll slide this into place over the bearing and remember, if you are putting it together, those larger holes have to be on the outside to hold that heat shrink in place.
There it is fully assembled all right. The next step is, I have to make a new cable now I can't just use heat shrink alone, because that itself is not strong enough. So in the kit, it actually comes with this tube it's, just like a long spring, and you slide it in the end, and this is what the heat shrink will be actually shrinking around feel to the end of it all right. There add a little extra, so we can just trim it off in the end there we go now a little on this side. A little on that side. I could use a heat gun here, guys but I'm just going to use my lighter everything. I'M moving the lighter nice and swiftly so I'm, not staying in one spot too long course, kids, if you're watching, never use a lighter without parent watching over you. Of course. Here I snipped off the ends and I made sure that the opening is clear of any plastic, so I don't have those wires off rain as they go through the tensioner side. Screws are loose now I'm, attaching the whole pulley upper system to the servo frame. On the side, for the supports done, because these cables have a sleeve that go over them, I'm, going to add a little bit of lubrication for the friction that'll be caused, even though it'll be a little still want my steering to work as smoothly as possible. So I will slide it through the end.
Hey my chassis now, here's, where I run into the bump issue. I'Ll show you where this servo is a little bit too long, but I think I can actually still do it check it out right that Wow way too close ha ha ha ha right here is where it's going to start bumping is hand threading to make sure I feel everything marry together. Properly looks like it's, just a tiny bit off. Does it work? Oh it does. Oh does it, it does whoo. It totally fits just want a hand. Tighten these so they're not over tight, but the thread lock will make it perfect. Here we go looking at where it connects nice like within a millimeter guys it's, like so small, but it fits in there, nice and strong, hey just putting my cables up and through my links and now that everything is attached. I can turn it over again carefully, but I've wired through now I'm, just putting the brass grommets on the end. Well, not Brahmas, but the guess the. What I call that a wire connector. You guys know what it's called. Let me know what it's called in the comment section so now. I know perfect and I'll reattach the bottom skid plate over the steering assembly there. Where did my screwdriver go? Yes, lining up the holes and number 4 jeez. I got a splinter from that cable right. In the end of my thumb, I hate wire, splinters ouch all right, so now I've got a longer steering cable.
I don't have to worry about any kind of hang or anything like that. That was the entire point is that these links here are slightly longer or in slight different design. Somehow that actually caused this lower steering cable not to be long enough, but that problem is solved now. Unfortunately, I would fire this big rig up for you here, but I still have to do the soldering on my motor I'm, also thinking about swapping over the ESC to the new rx 4, just simply because it's waterproof and the FXR I have powering it right now Is not, but my light kit is not waterproof, so I may have to you know, cover it in conformal, coating or whatever, but there you go my friends good, look at the upgrades that are done, I'll be mounting the body right after I do the soldering. Of course, and one step closer to being done, super cool guys thanks a lot for joining me today. I know some of you guys just wanted me to go out and rip on the trails I'll. Definitely in the next video. I already have this ready and we'll. Just go out and have some fun with it because I'm eager to see how these links and the water proof set up that I can do if it'll be a great truck, and I think it really has the potential to be awesome. So I'm, looking forward to showing it off guys. Hopefully we are too light click if you're subscribed awesome, if not make sure to subscribe for more different rcadventures.
Of course, now the spring and summer is here, I could finally go outside all of us. Pent up.